A look back at the highlights from Watches and Wonders 2025 (part 3 of 4)

Oris brings a cornucopia of colours to one of its most well-known and longest-produced models – the Big Crown Pointer Date. First up are the in-house Calibre 403 variants. In addition to the standard glossy navy dial, there are two new matte dials: one mossy green and one peachy terracotta. The Calibre 403 is an automatic movement with small seconds and a five-day power reserve, and it sits within a 40mm x 12.3mm stainless steel case. Three-dimensional numerals for the hour markers are within the printed date track, and the date is indicated by an arrowed pointer date hand with a lacquered and complementary-coloured arrowhead.

Oris also released three additional references of the Oris calibre 754–equipped variant. These feature eye-catching dials in yellow, blue and lilac, and come with, for the first time in this design language, Sellita movements. Like the Calibre 403 versions, the three-dimensional numerals and printed date track remain, but with the movement swap, the small seconds subdial is replaced with a centre seconds hand. The case remains 40mm in diameter but is slightly thinner at 12mm versus the 12.3mm green and terracotta dials.

Also joining the Big Crown collection in a new size is the 34mm stainless steel case. This smaller reference features the Oris calibre 531 movement, which offers a respectable 42 hours of power reserve.

Panerai

Hands down the single most iconic Panerai model, the Luminor Marina expands this year with a new generation of watches with notable across-the-board upgrades. For these models (four in steel, and one “Titanio” in titanium), Panerai worked to create a thinner, more sculpted case. The result is a svelter 13.4mm thickness but with an increased 500m depth rating. A display back shows off the P.980 automatic movement ensuring precision with a three-day power reserve. One of the most exciting innovations in the steel lineup is the introduction of a progressive V-shaped bracelet that tapers seamlessly for a refined yet lightweight feel. For added convenience, the Quick Length Adjustment feature allows the bracelet to extend by 2mm on each side, ensuring a perfect fit regardless of temperature or activity. A sun-brushed light blue dial, a first for the maison, adds a modern touch.

An elevated expression of Panerai’s high complications, the Platinumtech Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT comes with a striking blue sapphire crystal dial that exposes the intricate workings below. Aside from the sapphire dial, the face looks like any other Luminor Perpetual Calendar watch, featuring baton and Arabic hour markers, small seconds, and windows at 3 o’clock for the day and date. The case is made from the brand’s patented Platinumtech, a 95 percent pure platinum metal that is harder and more scratch-resistant than standard platinum.

Parmigiani Fleurier

With a focus on clean designs, superior materials and groundbreaking mechanics, Parmigiani Fleurier’s latest creations are a testament to the maison’s dedication to timeless elegance and technical ingenuity. The Toric Quantième Perpétuel, introduced as part of the Toric collection’s revival, tackles the perpetual calendar. Traditionally, these watches are packed with subdials and indicators but Parmigiani Fleurier takes a more meditative approach with a coaxial display that separates the day and date at 8 o’clock and the month and leap years at 4 o’clock. The collection is launched in two variations with hand-grained textured dials: polished platinum with a morning blue dial and another option in polished 18k rose gold with a matching gold dial, limited exclusively to 50 pieces.

Powered by the COSC-certified PF070 calibre and offering the same functions as the No Date 40mm, the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet is entirely crafted in Cermet, a high-tech composite the result of three years in R&D that combines the scratch resistance of ceramic with the lightness of metal.

One of the more visually arresting novelties is the Tonda PF Skeleton Slate Green. Limited to 50 pieces, the openworked PF777 calibre is rendered in a striking green colour, while the suspended indices and skeletonised Delta hands keep legibility high.

Patek Philippe

The grand dame of Geneva watchmaking, Patek Philippe debuted 15 new models, turning a spotlight on its intricate complications and elegant designs. Standouts include the Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G, which presents a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph and instantaneous perpetual calendar in a 42mm white gold case at 17.71mm thick. Its new calibre R CHR 27 PS QI movement is particularly notable for its optimised performances and two patented innovations concerning the split-seconds mechanism.

Another flagship model, the Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370R brings out its first version in rose gold, complemented by a two-tone Grand Feu enamel dial – brown with beige champlevé enamel subdials and a tachymeter scale. The colour combination lends excellent legibility, enhanced by applied rose gold Breguet numerals and rose gold leaf-shaped hands with beige luminescent coating. It runs on the CHR 29-535 PS movement, which combines traditional architecture with seven patented innovations.

There’s something for the ladies, too. For the first time, the Twenty~4 collection gets its first complication – a perpetual calendar, powered by the self-winding calibre 240 Q – housed in the first non-gem-set round Twenty~4 case.

Piaget

Fresh from celebrating its 150th anniversary in 2024, Piaget is moving forward with the unveiling of several pieces that highlight its unwavering commitment to horological artistry and timeless elegance. At the forefront is the Sixtie line, a new series of trapeze-shaped watches inspired by the maison’s avant-garde legacy of the 1960s. In four new references, each watch features interlaced trapeze-shaped links that curve in nicely on the sides, finely chiselled gadroons on the bezel, and a satin- finished dial with golden hour markers and Roman numerals. Available in pink gold, steel and two-tone models, the Sixtie watch houses dainty dimensions and displays main hours via a quartz movement. The full steel model is only available with a diamond-set bezel, while the pink gold versions have options without.

These are joined by a refined white gold Polo 79, powered by the in- house 1200P1 Manufacture self-winding movement, which can be admired through its open caseback; along with new iterations of the Andy Warhol watch. One model features a lustrous opal dial encircled by a white gold bezel set with a triple-row, baguette-cut blue sapphires to complement the stone’s sparkling flecks of blue and green. There’s also a tiger’s eye dial variant, as well as versions with green and white meteorite dials paired with different gold cases.

Roger Dubuis

The unrivalled maestro of hyper horology, Roger Dubuis marks its 30th anniversary by revisiting its very beginnings. In 1995, master watchmaker Roger Dubuis sought a partnership with designer Carlos Dias after Dubuis’s illustrious career at Patek Philippe. Their first timepiece featured the signature Biretrograde display that Dubuis had co-patented years earlier. That particular mechanical spectacle takes centre stage in two of Roger Dubuis’ champion novelties: Excalibur Grande Complication and Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar.

The former, limited to only eight pieces, combines a flying tourbillion, minute repeater and perpetual calendar. Its Calibre RD118 delivers 60 hours of power reserve and is further accentuated by different finishes. This level of detail allows the timepiece to achieve the esteemed Poinçon de Genève certification, in which every surface of the 684 components must be meticulously hand- decorated.

At 40mm, the new Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar returns to the more refined case sizes typical of Roger Dubuis’s earliest creations, crafted in 18k pink gold with a white mother-of-pearl dial. The sapphire crystal caseback displays the self-winding Calibre RD840, along with a ring bearing an engraved quote as a lasting tribute to the Roger Dubuis co-founders: C’est une montre actuelle, inspirée mais pas soumise au passé, qui se projette dans un futur qui nous appartient. In English: “This is a watch of today, inspired but not restricted to the past, projected into a future that belongs to us.”

Also see: A look back at the highlights from Watches and Wonders 2025 (part 2 of 4)