A look back at the highlights from Watches and Wonders 2025 (part 4 of 4)

This year, Rolex dropped a proper mixed bag of novelties. An entirely new collection with 32 patents to its name, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land- Dweller is the brand’s single most important new launch. The case design draws its inspiration from the Oysterquartz and 1530 references of old featuring an integrated bracelet, while at its core is the all-new Calibre 7135, Rolex’s first high-frequency mechanical movement, driven by the revolutionary Dynapulse escapement, which employs dual silicon wheels for optimised efficiency. The dial features a honeycomb motif – subtle, textured and inspired by nature. On versions with Chromalight display, the open numerals and hour markers glow luminously in low light, as do the specially crafted hands.

The crown also delivered some seriously bold dials, shaking up icons like the GMT, which turned 70 this year. The first is an even more colourful version of the green-and-black “Sprite” that was released in 2022, now in white gold instead of steel. In fact, this is the first white-gold GMT-Master to have a ceramic dial. It also swaps out the previous iteration’s black dial for a bright green one, making it reminiscent of the popular green-on-green Submariner reference 116610LV, better known as the “Hulk.”

Rolex also released a new spin on the Root Beer with a brown and black ceramic bezel insert housed in 18k Everose gold. The standout feature is the tiger iron dial that is crafted from a natural metamorphic rock that combines tiger’s eye, red jasper and hematite. This is the first time Rolex has used this composition of natural metamorphic rock.

Tag Heuer

With Tag Heuer returning as this year’s timekeeper for Formula 1 comes a timely retro reintroduction of its F1 series with the Solargraph at Watches and Wonders 2025. These models feature a refined 38mm case and are powered by the TH50-00 movement, a solar-powered quartz calibre that harnesses light through dial-integrated cells. A mere two minutes of sunlight provides enough energy for a full day, while a full charge sustains the watch for up to 10 months. The collection offers a variety of colour schemes, with limited editions inspired by the vibrant hues of the original 1986 collection.

Of course, there’s also a special-edition timepiece to mark the occasion: the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1, dressed in full F1 livery. A hand-painted oscillating weight echoes the bold colours of an F1 circuit’s kerbs, a nod to the razor-sharp precision demanded by the fastest cars on the planet. The case construction pushes boundaries with a unique fusion of 50% ceramic and 50% sapphire, a technical marvel that enhances both durability and aesthetics. White ceramic arches, reminiscent of the advanced materials found throughout modern F1 machines, reinforce the watch’s racing pedigree.

As one of TAG Heuer’s most iconic collections, the Carrera line also introduces two fresh additions – the Day-Date and Twin-Time models – while reviving the legendary beads-of-rice bracelet for the Carrera Chronograph series, blending heritage with contemporary craftsmanship.

Also see: A look back at the highlights from Watches and Wonders 2025 (part 1 of 4)

Tudor

Tudor turned up at Watches and Wonders 2025 committing to its mantra of “Born to Dare” with a suite of timepieces that balance heritage with cutting-edge innovation, showcasing evolution and refinement.

The Black Bay 58 introduces a new interpretation for 2025: a burgundy bezel and dial combination that tempers its vintage roots with a cool, modern sensibility. Housed in a 39mm stainless steel case, this latest iteration retains the hallmark proportions and design codes of the collection – domed crystal, “Snowflake” hands, and a minimalist dive bezel – while offering a refreshed shade that feels both contemporary and quietly distinctive. It can now be paired with a polished and satin-brushed 5-link bracelet, equipped with Tudor’s T-fit clasp for swift and tool-free micro-adjustments.

Tudor also went to new depths with the introduction of the Pelagos Ultra. Engineered for saturation divers, this 43mm titanium beast boasts a staggering 1,000-metre water resistance, aided by a helium escape valve and dual-colour lume for extreme legibility in pitch-black conditions. The reimagined bracelet includes a clever visual indicator for the T-fit micro-adjustment clasp, a first for the brand. Inside, the MT5612-U Master Chronometer movement ensures the precision and magnetic resistance you’d expect from a watch built to survive the abyss.

Just when you thought watch sizes were getting smaller, Tudor decided to go the opposite way. The Black Bay 68 is a new size offering in 43mm. Named after the year Tudor introduced its signature Snowflake hands, this new model features two dial colour configurations — silver or Tudor Blue.

Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin once again showcased its mastery in cutting-edge material research and traditional watchmaking with the launch of the Diver Air. Water-resistant to 200 metres, this skeletonised dive watch weighs just 52 grams thanks to the use of innovative and environmentally friendly materials, such as recycled carbon fibre, recycled titanium and Nylo-Foil derived from repurposed fishing nets. Another key element that contributes to its airy, lightweight look and feel is the newly developed, intricately skeletonised Calibre UN- 374, designed in the shape of an X. The principle behind its design was to remove everything possible without compromising the mechanical strength. The automatic movement, which consists of 199 components, with bridges and plates made from recycled titanium, withstood shocks of up to 5,000G in rigorous testing.

Also see: A look back at the highlights from Watches and Wonders 2025 (part 2 of 4)

Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary was defined by technical ambition, decorative mastery and a return to form through refined expressions of its classic repertoire. Leading the showcase was the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, the world’s most complicated watch featuring an unprecedented 41 complications. On the front of the piece unique, the hands from the canter indicate civil time. At 3 o’clock, a second time zone is indicated, which can be selected via a slider on the case. The innovative solution employing a differential instead of a coupling is patented. At 12 o’clock, the displays of the perpetual calendar are consolidated. At 9 o’clock, the moon phase and tides are shown. At 6 o’clock, there are indications of the sun’s altitude, culmination and declination, as well as the equation and a disc with zodiac signs and seasons. The Solaria at the edge of the dial shows the position of the sun, as well as the times for sunrise and sunset.

The lineup also included a trio of Traditionnelle Openface models, the platinum Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, and new limited editions from the Patrimony and Traditionnelle lines. These are united by distinctive stylish details, like a subtle geometric motif on the dial inspired by the Maltese Cross, Vacheron Constantin’s emblem since 1880, as well as the côte unique finish on the bridges of each calibre visible via the sapphire caseback.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels continues its exploration of romance, craftsmanship and horological innovation. At the heart of the showcase is the Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate, which marks the latest evolution in the maison’s celebrated Poetic Complications collection. This new creation captures the romance of a Parisian guinguette. Through the magic of an automaton movement, two lovers come together and exchange a kiss at noon and midnight.

The first Poetic Complication to win a prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux watch has captivated collectors with its tender narrative – in a double retrograde movement, two lovers meet atop a Parisian bridge at noon and midnight, holding their embrace for three fleeting minutes before parting once more. This year, Van Cleef & Arpels enriches the collection with four exquisite new variations, each reflecting a different time of day – Aube (dawn), Matinée (morning), Soirée (dusk), and Clair de Lune (moonlight).

Created in 1935, the Cadenas watch quickly became an emblem of Van Cleef & Arpels’s watchmaking. In keeping with the original aesthetic of this model, which has marked the maison’s history, the new precious creation combines a yellow gold bracelet with a case pavéd in snow-set diamonds and enhanced by a row of princess-cut sapphires.

Zenith

Celebrating 160 years, Zenith explores legacy movements and modern materials. The G.F.J. is a refined tribute to the brand’s legacy of chronometric precision and innovation. Named after the initials of its founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, the watch revives the legendary Calibre 135 – the most awarded movement in the history of observatory chronometer competitions – and brings it into the 21st century with a platinum-cased limited edition. The Calibre 135 manual-wind movement inside the G.F.J. is a modern reinterpretation of the original 135-O observatory competition calibre, featuring the same oversized balance wheel and offset centre wheel but re-engineered with contemporary upgrades. These include a longer 72-hour power reserve, optimised gear train, stop-seconds function, COSC certification and accuracy within ±2 seconds per day. Limited to 160 pieces, the three-part construction dial features natural blue
lapis lazuli in the centre, brick guilloche on the outer ring and a seconds subdial at 6 o’clock rendered in coordinating blue mother-of-pearl.

Meanwhile, a trilogy of limited-edition chronographs – the Chronomaster Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph and Pilot Big Date Flyback – come dressed in a bold new blue ceramic specifically designed for the occasion. Each watch features a specially marked “160th Anniversary” oscillating weight visible through their sapphire casebacks. Limited to 160 pieces each, the watches can be purchased individually or as a set in a special anniversary box.

Also see: A look back at the highlights from Watches and Wonders 2025 (part 3 of 4)