From cockpit to contemporary icon: The Rolex GMT-Master’s ongoing journey revealed in exhibition

There’s a certain romance to the idea of crossing time zones in a single bound, of being able to track two places at once, whether you’re a pilot, an explorer or simply someone whose heart is in two cities. Rolex launches an exhibition on May 26 to tell the tale of its iconic GMT-Master

Since its debut in 1955, the Rolex GMT-Master has been the wrist-bound companion for those who live life in perpetual motion, and this month, its story takes centre stage at the “Time Zone to Time Zone” exhibition in Hong Kong.

A watch born for the jet age

The tale of the GMT-Master begins in the golden age of commercial aviation. As the world shrank and intercontinental flights became the norm, pilots and travellers alike faced a new challenge: keeping track of home and destination times. Rolex’s answer was ingenious: a two-colour, 24-hour graduated bezel and a fourth hand, allowing wearers to read a second time zone at a glance.

The GMT-Master’s instantly recognisable bezel has evolved through the decades, moving from Plexiglas to aluminium, and since 2005, to scratch-resistant ceramic. Each material marks a chapter in the watch’s journey, reflecting advances in both technology and style. The iconic two-tone bezel remains a symbol of adventure and cosmopolitan flair, as relevant in the cockpit as it is in the boardroom.

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Technical evolution, timeless design

The exhibition highlights not only the GMT-Master’s storied past but also its relentless innovation. The movement inside the GMT-Master has been reimagined eleven times, from the original calibre 1036 to today’s calibre 3285. Notably, the 1982 introduction of an independently adjustable hour hand transformed the GMT-Master into the GMT-Master II-making it even more practical for globe-trotters who hop time zones with abandon.

Modern iterations feature the Chromalight display, which bathes hands and indices in a vivid blue glow for optimal legibility in the dark. Since 2018, the Jubilee bracelet has returned to join the classic Oyster, offering wearers a choice of comfort and style. Today’s models are available in robust Oystersteel, luxurious Rolesor, and precious 18ct gold, ensuring there’s a GMT-Master for every wrist and every journey.

A living legacy

What makes the GMT-Master enduringly special is its ability to evolve without losing its soul. The exhibition invites visitors to trace this evolution, from vintage pieces preserved by Rolex’s Heritage Department to the latest models gracing wrists around the world. Along the way, stories abound - of aviators, actors, and adventurers who have shaped history with a GMT-Master as their constant companion.

The journey concludes with a short film, a fitting tribute to a watch that has become more than a tool: it’s a symbol of connection, curiosity, and the unending quest to bridge distances.

A glimpse into tomorrow

While the exhibition is a celebration of heritage, it also hints at the future. The GMT-Master continues to be refined, with each new model balancing technical prowess and timeless design. As the world keeps moving, so too does the GMT-Master-ready to accompany the next generation of explorers, wherever their journeys may lead.

For those in Hong Kong this May and June, the “Time Zone to Time Zone” exhibition at Freespace, West Kowloon Cultural District, offers a rare chance to see the past, present, and future of an icon - one that has truly kept pace with the world’s ever-changing rhythm.

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