Mr Porter’s Daniel Todd and The Armoury’s Mark Cho on menswear trends
Jun 16, 2025
Menswear trends will always come and go, but a signature look is forever. Mr Porter’s Daniel Todd and The Armoury’s Mark Cho explain to Zaneta Cheng how men of all ages can cultivate their own personal style without sacrificing the post-pandemic comfort they’ve come to cherish
Torpedo shoes, gorpcore round two, windbreakers and bulked-up boat shoes are just some of the trends zipping through the menswear scene in this blink-and-you’ll-miss-it fashion landscape we currently live in. At such a breakneck clip, it may be possible to know what to buy right this second, but for those looking to cultivate a personal style that’s more coherent and longer-lasting, then a view to broader trend changes might be more productive. Daniel Todd, buying director at Mr Porter, points to a post-pandemic lifestyle change where more people want to go out and wear clothing that makes them feel special but that also preserves the comfort that many became used to during work-from-home dressing. The result is a move towards utility, soft tailoring and reinterpreting heritage icons like the boat shoe and waxed jackets.
“The future of menswear is likely characterised by a blend of bold street style and refined luxury – both of which emphasise the importance of quality, craftsmanship and a point of difference. Tailoring continues to have a relaxed take, focusing on fit, comfort and fabric innovation,” Todd says. It’s certainly a departure from the hype-driven, logo-laden styles of
the decade or so before, which also had a hand in making sweeping changes to men’s style, but Todd is confident that the more outré of the fashion set will still have pieces to put in their closets. “Maximalists can still thrive in a landscape increasingly focused on classic styles by combining interesting fabrics, patterns and textures. Accessories are always a great way to make a statement as well as being a good investment such as lapel pins, iconic sunglasses and oversized bags that can easily be worn with a dialed-down look.”
For the starched and laced set, this new era in tailoring allows them to loosen the collar while maintaining the same debonair manner. According to Mark Cho, co-founder of menswear brand The Armoury, and co-owner of Drake’s London, “Tailoring has become more casual with looser silhouettes and more texture. In terms of shape, we’re seeing straighter-leg trousers, fuller jackets and more appetite for double-breasted jackets.”
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Even those looking for bespoke suiting are leaning toward a more deshabille approach to their jackets – “more interest in more matte materials as well as more cotton, linen and silk giving a more worn-in look versus a very crisp look.”
The popularity of more relaxed tailoring can be seen in the uptick of customers and orders at Milanese tailor Musella Dembech, who are masters of Milanese elegance and the double-breast. Stocked with the best fabrics tailoring can offer and with piles of vintage stock to boot, father and son duo Francesco and Gianfrancesco Musella create suits with long, stately lines while maintaining soft shoulders and structure. Even in the most formal of suiting, comfort and ease is key to construction. One of the hallmarks of a comfortable and well-tailored suit is the ability to stretch the arms out, up and every which way with the shoulders staying firmly on the shoulders.
There’s more to tailoring but that’s for another story. For those looking at the runway for a quicker fix, Giorgio Armani, Hermès, Fendi and Prada have all eased up on the shoulders with almost no padding in sight. With colours, layers, patterns, stitching and fabrics all coming into play, it’s easy to get lost. According to Cho, the key is to “buy garments that have some shape in the waist, chest and shoulders without being tight. Comfort is important and you will always look your best when you are comfortable.”
Ease is also something that Todd touts in the current fashion climate. “What I love about style right now is how easily you can blend two scenarios into one outfit,” he says. “Office attire can be weekend attire, and vice versa. Comfort is key for both settings. I’d base the look with tailored trousers and a white tee and opt for a double-breasted blazer for the office and a relaxed overshirt for the weekend.”
When it all comes down to it, Cho recommends exposure. “Try on as many garments as you can – different fabrics, different cuts, different brands. Experiencing many styles will help you find your own style.”
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