Takashi Murakami on his Louis Vuitton collaboration

At Art Basel Hong Kong 2025, Louis Vuitton presented an exclusive selection of works by visionary Japanese artist Takashi Murakami, highlighting his decades-long collaboration with the brand. He tells Stephenie Gee all about this historic partnership

In the spring of 2003, Japanese artist Takashi Murakami – acclaimed for his fun motifs, whimsical sculptures and playful characters – orchestrated his first collaboration with Louis Vuitton. He was recruited by Marc Jacobs, then six years into his role as creative director, to make over the brand’s signature Monogram collection with his distinctive colour-pop palette. No one, it seems, was prepared for how it would change the worlds of art and fashion. At the Guggenheim Bilbao Museum, models walked out in gleaming satin ’60s silhouettes. In hand were a series of handbags emblazoned with the maison’s signature motif, revisited by the artist in no less than 33 colours. It was the first time the house had ever allowed its Monogram canvas to be altered, and it was an instant sensation.

Over the years, the LV x Murakami collection has become one of the most commercially successful – and sought-after – fashion and art collaborations, with fans like Naomi Campbell, Kendall Jenner and Zendaya routinely trotting out vintage pieces. Since its launch, several models have remained in the permanent collection, and the relationship between the brand and the artist has remained so strong that they have decided to celebrate the 20th anniversary of their groundbreaking partnership with a reissue of the inaugural collection.

In celebration of two decades of collaboration, Louis Vuitton also brought Murakami’s bold, boundary-pushing world to this year’s Art Basel Hong Kong. From sculptures to print to textiles to video works, the curated presentation invited guests to explore the full scope of Murakami’s multidisciplinary talent. The exhibit also featured renowned pieces created in collaboration with Louis Vuitton, including the highly sought-after Monogram Multicolore Marilyn Trunk from 2003 and Monogramouflage from 2008 .

Tell us about your relationship with Louis Vuitton.

My first collaboration with Louis Vuitton was initiated by Marc Jacobs. He had a very successful previous collaboration with Stephen Sprouse, which really shook the fashion world. Marc Jacobs chose me as his next collaborator, and the idea was to focus on renewing Louis Vuitton’s signature designs. He explained to me that the Monogram was based on Japanese family emblems, and also the Damier was inspired by the Japanese itchimasu. So he wanted me to refresh these Japanese icons, and it was a huge success and we started seeing more collaborations in the fashion world. But the starting point was Marc Jacobs himself. He created the collaboration culture. I was just riding in his train.

What new discoveries did you make with this collaboration?

Back then I didn’t know what fashion was. The fashion world is full of beautiful men and women, but I’m just a geeky guy who’s into anime and Star Wars and that kind of stuff. And I don’t wear luxury clothes – I’m a T-shirt and shorts or pants, down jacket kind of guy because I’m an artist working in a studio making paintings and sculptures. So I had to study fashion – What is Dior? What is Gucci? What is Louis Vuitton? But after learning about it and its evolution, it was very exciting.

To celebrate 20 years of collaboration, you and Louis Vuitton have released a re-edition that reimagines the original collection. What was different about the collaboration this time around?

So, 20 years ago I didn’t understand what fashion was. My collaboration with Louis Vuitton changed that, and also working with Virgil Abloh taught me a lot – the way he blended street fashion and luxury. Now, 20 years later, I would say I have a much better understanding of fashion. Another thing different this time is that I’m not actually collaborating with an artist. Back then, a session would be sitting down with Marc Jacobs himself. This time, I was sitting down at the Louis Vuitton factory with the design team. Good or bad, I don’t know. But I like to think I’ve definitely evolved as an artist.

Collaborations are a big part of your work. Besides Marc Jacobs, who would be another
memorable collaborator?

Virgil Abloh, whom I created some artworks with. I think that collaboration was definitely a highlight in my life. I remember one day he came to my studio and asked me about my techniques and painting and if I wanted to do something with him. We had very different approaches but the experience was a very impactful one for me. After he passed away, I remember sitting in my studio – it was very quiet – and just thinking, ‘Virgil was here.’

Also see: Mr Porter’s Daniel Todd and The Armoury’s Mark Cho on menswear trends