Menswear Spring/Summer 2025 (part 4 of 4)

Dubbed “Closer,” this collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons seamlessly blended the real and the imaginary. Pieces were worth a close inspection to understand their construction. Like what appeared to be shirts worn under jumpers was actually singular primary-coloured knits, and how straight-cut trousers had buttons where belt loops are traditionally found.

Inspired by the influence of the writing brush on the art of Chinese calligraphy and Chinese culture, Shiatzy Chen brought a calligraphic rhythm to this collection. Neutral colors such as celadon, khaki and soft yellow were balanced by the hefty ink colour, and the light woolen tassels and coating contrasted with the soft strokes of the writing brush. Dragonfly and iris patterns were the main characters of the season, showing the airy and breezy strokes of this collection.

Tod's

Matteo Tamburini’s first men’s collection at Tod’s focused on quality, materials and detailing. It featured a timeless, unmistakably elegant Italian style and a casualness appropriate for everyday wear. Among the details, the Pashmy project represented the highest expression in the selection of leathers, leading a range of unique pieces, including bomber jackets, the new Di Bag sack and iconic T-Riviera shoes.

Tom Ford

The first menswear collection from Peter Hawkings, SS25 pulled inspiration from rock stars of the past like Mick Jagger and David Bowie. The looks started simple and sophisticated with black and white pinstriped suits, followed by a series of pastel- coloured lustrous suits before ending with full disco glamour –  including a jacket in gold-tone leopard jacquard and a cheetah patterned shirt in opaque black and gold fil coupé.

Alessandro Michele continued his signature maximalist styling this season and reshaped classic pieces in a more modern way, drawing inspiration from Valentino’s history in the 1970s. The collection showcased sumptuous elements such as banquet-appropriate tuxedo jackets, ruffled shirts and decorative bow ties, with bold colours and intricate prints maintaining a balance between order and chaos.

Versace

Donatella Versace was trying to find a delicate balance this season between her house’s signature luxury and a breezier aesthetic. The show started with contrasting zigzag cardigans and showed a range of bold and expressive colours and prints. It then moved on to ’70s suede coats and distressed denim that combined vintage hues with Western styles. Finally, it featured a softer and sweeter palette of lavender and pale yellow.

Also see: Menswear Spring/Summer 2025 (part 3 of 4)